Author Topic: No humidity dome rooting method  (Read 1015 times)

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Offline fettuccine

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No humidity dome rooting method
« on: November 19, 2018, 10:55:40 PM »
I wanted to share another rooting method that Iíve been using and find to be worth trying. So far Iíve tried several methods of starting in water or moist paper towel/ziplock to get roots started then potting. The results havenít been consistently the same. Most havenít done well because of drastic changes in the humidity, temp, soil moisture in the transitions.

The method Iím finding most convenient and simple so far can be found on threefoldfarm and was done by Tim. Timís method starts with the cutting going straight into a tall container with potting mix. The cutting is buried all the way to the last node leaving only 0.5-1Ē exposed. It doesnít use a humidity dome at all. Itís watered once right on the cutting then left untouched. The only watering needed is misting the surface if the top inch of the mix becomes dry but nothing more than that. Some old gardenweb posts by a user also suggest that temperature stability plays a huge part in rooting and heating mats may make rooting more difficult or harder. So I didnít use any heat mats or extra heating. Theyíre in a mini greenhouse shelf with a vinyl zip up cover thatís kept in the basement. I started these cuttings October 21 and the attached photos were taken November 10-12.

The cuttings still look healthy and theyíre not showing any signs of dehydration yet. No discoloration creeping up the wood that you usually see when a cutting is rotting underneath. All but one are tip cuttings and they were not fully dormant or lignified either. Many of the bud tips on the cuttings are still green and a few are also shiny and/or bulging. :) For the buds that arenít green anymore, the bud below or next to it is swelling instead.

A few of these cuttings are only 3Ē long because I pruned a few which were branching off more lignified ones that I wanted for storage. I accidentally knocked one of these 3Ē cuttings over and it fell out of its container. I inspected it for damage and the bottom of the cutting had become extra thick with callusing. At the bottom end was also two tiny roots less than 1/4Ē long. Coincidentally, the small purple bud at the top is opening and showing a tiny bit of green. So for this particular cutting, the root and bud are growing/emerging at the same pace. :D

I really like this method so far because it uses room temperature and doesnít need any humidity adjustments when they begin growing. I also feel like itís cutting down on alot of unnecessary stress the plant goes through when transitioning to different pots and rooting media. Right now my cuttings are in the mix I plan to permanently use for them as trees. The only stress it will experience would be root disturbance from pulling the tree out of its pot.

The rooting seems to be taking time but Iím not seeing any mold or rotting in the soil. I know for sure not using a humidity dome plays a part in that. The cuttings have been progressing at a slow and steady rate so crossing my fingers I have more updates on them in the future!

I use a bottle with a narrow narrow tip to moisten the surface when it becomes too crispy brown. I found the bottle at a beauty supply store in the hair dye area
« Last Edit: November 24, 2018, 12:42:44 PM by fettuccine »
WL: Cavaliere, Pastiliere, Bourjasotte Grise, Genovese Nero AF, Negretta, Drap DíOr, true LSU OíRourke, Atreano OR, Bi-39, Sweetheart

Online LouisianaMojo

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Re: No humidity dome rooting method
« Reply #1 on: November 20, 2018, 08:26:18 AM »
Thanks for posting this and keep us all updated

Tinyfish

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Re: No humidity dome rooting method
« Reply #2 on: November 20, 2018, 07:28:52 PM »
This sounds simple enough especially that you don't need a humidity dome.

Offline fettuccine

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Re: No humidity dome rooting method
« Reply #3 on: November 21, 2018, 04:16:04 PM »
I did my daily checkup on the cuttings shelf today and noticed one of the containers is already drying at the surface. I just dampened the soil surface the other day too. Welp heres why :)!! I forgot to mention that I always drill at least one row of holes along the bottom side of my propagation containers. It may or may not have contributed to the rooting process but it definitely didnít harm it
« Last Edit: November 24, 2018, 01:31:02 PM by fettuccine »
WL: Cavaliere, Pastiliere, Bourjasotte Grise, Genovese Nero AF, Negretta, Drap DíOr, true LSU OíRourke, Atreano OR, Bi-39, Sweetheart

Offline fettuccine

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Re: No humidity dome rooting method
« Reply #4 on: November 24, 2018, 02:09:07 PM »
Wanted to write an update on these cuttings. The cuttings from my last post on 11/21/18, I unpotted and separated that same night into their own pots. 3 small to medium cuttings of the same variety, two had roots short enough to pot without damaging. Third cutting had no roots but was still healthy and alive, just less callused at the cut end. Over the past three days the two cuttings are growing their roots really fast.

I tried this method out on 3 different varieties that I got from the same grower, 3-4 cuttings of each. On 11/22/18 found roots in a container with variety #2. Then today 11/24/18 a small root poking through on variety #3. All cuttings were started on 10/21/18 and all three varieties grew roots on at least one cutting :)

I donít have much time today to take them out and pot them separately. It seems like the best time to is when theyíre still extremely short no longer than 2Ē or very root bound. I prefer to separate when the roots are short to avoid the nightmare of detangling and damaging roots. The others I potted early are doing well though
WL: Cavaliere, Pastiliere, Bourjasotte Grise, Genovese Nero AF, Negretta, Drap DíOr, true LSU OíRourke, Atreano OR, Bi-39, Sweetheart

Offline megojoe

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Re: No humidity dome rooting method
« Reply #5 on: November 25, 2018, 02:08:26 AM »
Steve here,


Way to go you got your niche going there keep up the good work  ;D


Steve
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Offline fettuccine

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Re: No humidity dome rooting method
« Reply #6 on: December 17, 2018, 02:57:51 PM »
A small and slow update on these 10 cuttings :) and thanks Steve, I hope so!

Roots status: still 8 out of 10 with 2 still alive but not showing signs. Maybe cut from weaker branches.
Buds: 2 out of 10 are actively breaking bud but no leaves have emerged yet.
Leaves: 1 out of 10 has pushed leaves out. From the first roottip seen to the first emerging leaf it took 17 days.

I had done 2 other cuttings using the same method but the mix was different, ratio was more 30/70 peat:perlite. Perlite used for these 2 was a different brand and size than the other 10 and also didnít use rooting hormone. One of them rooted, broke bud, and pushed leaves at two nodes. The other was trying to break bud but stopped and after investigation I found that it hadnít formed roots yet. Cutting is still healthy and firm so I think the mix dries too fast for my set-and-forget growing style. Before putting it back, I scraped the bottom end and put some rooting hormone to help it retain some moisture where itís needed.

A pic of the 2 newly leafing out cuttings and some roots. The nice big root with lots of laterals is from the leafing cutting. The other leafing cutting is the more perlite heavy mix. The rest are still focusing on roots but theyíre under an LED grow light with the leafy ones. I havenít deeply watered any of them yet except maybe the one with the very small volume of soil bc it dries so fast
« Last Edit: December 17, 2018, 03:25:43 PM by fettuccine »
WL: Cavaliere, Pastiliere, Bourjasotte Grise, Genovese Nero AF, Negretta, Drap DíOr, true LSU OíRourke, Atreano OR, Bi-39, Sweetheart

Offline Efficial

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Re: No humidity dome rooting method
« Reply #7 on: January 05, 2019, 12:38:15 AM »
Thank you for posting this! Good information! I have been working on perfecting my own method, with the idea to both optimize each step, while also eliminating as much as possible.
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