My Best Rooting Method for 2023

[opiem10]

Fig pops failed………miserably.

Shoebox method resulted in a very high percentage of cuttings developing very good root masses and new green growth.   However, after potting in 4 X 4 X 9 mini tree pots, about a third of the cuttings wilted and died.   The roots just never grew when potted.

Best method: modified Figaholics direct planting!  I modified Harvey’s method because winter growing conditions are different in NJ than in sunny California.   

Step 1- I soaked cuttings in water and chamomile tea until I saw lenticels begin to pop or if a leaf bud showed signs of swelling.

Step 2- I filled a mini tree pot with well draining soil (about 25% sand). 

Step 3- The cutting to be potted is wrapped tightly in Parafilm (I tried grafting tape but I didn’t like it). When wrapping, I did not not cover the nodes, giving them unimpeded freedom to grow.

Step 4- I took a razor knife and cut (not scraped) a strip of bark starting at the bottom node to the bottom of the cutting.  I started shallow at the node but cut deeper towards the bottom of the cutting. 

Step 5- using no rooting hormone, I just stuck the cutting upright, into the soil to the point where the Parafilm wrap begins.  Then, I packed the soil around the cutting (when doing hardwood cuttings for bonsai, I had been told that cuttings need to be stable to root) using a small long handled spoon. 

Step 6- The mini tree pot is placed in a tall Rubbermaid container which is placed over a seedling heat mat.  The container has a 2 inch layer of pine chips on the bottom to buffer against too much heat.  The pine chips are moistened with a solution containing insecticide (I use Demand CS) that has resulted in ZERO fungus gnats.  The container is covered with a clear lid and lights are placed on the lid. 

Results to date:  Strong branches, good leaf development and near zero loss of cuttings.   What I can’t tell is how the roots are developing.  If roots are developing, they do not need to be disturbed until late spring when the plants will go into 5 gallon pots.  I had read a respected grower on another forum state that you should NEVER disturb roots on young cuttings, which may be correct, considering my losses at the up potting stages when I used fig pops or shoebox methods.   

I’ll post a follow up.   And if successful with the modified Figaholic method, pictures too!   

[mothergoosefarms]

Thank you for the post.  Well described.  Looking forward to the results on the roots. 

[Andrea]

Wow!  What an excellent side-by-side comparison of different methods.  I'm eager to hear how the root systems look when you uppot from the mini tree pots to 5 gallon pots.

I also tend to believe that disturbing roots on very young cuttings is asking for trouble.  The fig pop method is the main one that I use, but I've seen HarveyC's video and wondered how well it might work for those of us not blessed with California's climate.  Please keep us posted on how yours turn out long term.

When I uppot a figpop and damage the roots in process (slip of the scissors cutting off the bag...and roots, figpop fell off the potting bench, twisted the cutting while trying to add more potting mix to the new pot, etc. - it's hard to be a young cutting in my shed) I will note "rough uppot" on the label.  Sometimes they actually survive.  Not quite 50%, but pretty close.  Others that had healthy root systems and a smooth uppotting continue growing for a few weeks then drop dead.  Cannot explain that at all.  Superthrive has seemed to help tremendously this year after uppotting.  I've only had 2 of 50 uppots this year do the "death wilt" and one seems to be coming back. (These are figs that I donate to the gardening group's fundraiser - I sure don't have space for another 50 figs).

[LaFigGwr2019]

John,

Thank you for sharing your experience with the members.  I can’t wait to see what results you come out with.

[FigMamaJanet]

John,

Thanks for all of the information/instructions on the different rooting methods that you have been working on.  I think the Figaholics method or rooting may be a good choice - no up-potting involved for a while.  I know that would be the method if I was rooting cuttings now.

I will do my sticking the cuttings in the ground as I did this past summer - 75% were a success.  The other 25% were dried out - I believe some were on the dry side before I put them in the ground.  All were in the fridge crisper drawer until the time of planting.

Good luck and keep us posted!!

[opiem10]

Here are some pictures that give a visual of the Figaholics Rooting Method for my fig cuttings.   I think this is going to be my new "go to" method as there is no transplant loss.   And the percent of cuttings which root is nearly 100% so far.

When I cut a sliver of bark adjacent to the cutting, I cut on the side with less lenticel development.   I want to keep as many of those root bumps in place as I can.

In the picture of the Rubbermaid tub, you can see how humid the environment is.   The bottom two inch layer of pine chips is quite moist.   With the use of Demand CS, I have not seen a fungus gnat this season, and the conditions are ideal for those little buggers to thrive.

My soil is heavy, but drains well because of all the sand I use.   I did not want to go heavy on perlite as I find it dries out too quickly.   I do not want to add any water to the soil media until the cutting is really growing well.

[FigMamaJanet]

Thank you John for the step-by-step visual and instructions.  I am so happy for you that this method seems to be flawless.  Keep us posted on the progress of your fig "babies"

[tridrama]

Thanks for sharing. I had stopped scraping the bark. Perhaps I will go back to that. I just started a few cuttings a little over a week ago. The four I had prior are so far 1 still hanging on with no roots, 1 success, 2 withered after up potting.

[opiem10]

LeConte, I think starting the cuttings in water really helps.  Either the cutting starts developing lenticels or starts pushing green buds.   Either way, the cutting is waking up and getting ready to grow before it touches soil.   And then, high humidity and light gets them really moving.